Summer 2011 9. From Skagen to Grenå

From Skagen to Grenå : different sailing with 84 miles of shallow sea in Kattegat.

We left our berth in Skagen with the help of the owner of a Danish boat that was next to us and motored to the fuel berth for diesel and water. Getting out of the harbour proved difficult as first one, then another, large fishing boat appeared in the entrance. Eventually it was clear so we headed out, only to have the engine die right in the harbour mouth. 

We had a fair westerly wind, so unrolled the staysail, then the jib to get clear. Up with the main and on our way. Investigation while under way seemed to indicate a blocked filter as the pump leak appeared to be fixed. Changing fuel filters while sailing in a fresh wind is not much fun so we carried on. 

Laeso Rende lighthouse , marking a large shallow area with depths of 2.5 metres between Laeso and the mainland.

I feel more comfortable with night watches and even enjoy some views with interesting boats passing by , despite very busy shipping routes in narrow stretches . 

Here are some pictures taken at dawn :

 

We tacked in between two shallow banks to within a quarter of a mile of Grenå yacht harbour, easily identified by the forest of masts and the regular appearance of boats leaving in the early morning. The wind was blowing straight out of the narrow entrance making sailing in very difficult so the main anchor was unlashed, just in case, and the engine started. We got to about 50 metres from the starboard pier end when the engine stopped, so down went the anchor in 3 metres of water. A few of the boats leaving waved, some looked puzzled, and others just ignored us.

Grenå with forest of masts !

We used this break to rig fenders and lines for mooring, then recovered the anchor and made a second attempt with the engine.  This took us about 150 metres and around the end of the breakwater pier, then silence. Anchor down in even less water and dropped back on the chain until the stern was just clear of the breakwater rocks – not a nice place to be. Inci started the engine again, and Sean switched over the fuel feed to the small header tank used to bleed the system, then recovered the anchor. We made it between a pair of piles directly ahead and achieved our first Baltic box mooring without too much difficulty. This time we stopped the engine!

Summer 2011 8. Arrived in Denmark !

Arrived in Denmark on 8^th of July.
Just after one month since we left Orkney from Stromness.

We arrived at Skagen harbour, following 94 miles of sailing across the Skagerrak from Norway to Denmark. We managed to sail about a third of the way in light winds , but had to motor for 16 hours with no wind. After rounding Skagen Rev buoy, we were able to sail again for the last 6 miles. 

Just a couple of miles before the Skagen harbour entrance, we tried to start the engine, but it would not work. So, we had to sail into the harbour which was full with yachts as well as big fishing boats! 

Once moored with bow to pier and a stern anchor Sean investigated the engine. The hand priming pump seemed to be leaking so this was fixed with silicon sealant, as it was a weekend and spares for an old Ford diesel were unlikely to be readily available. Engine ran for 30 minutes in the berth and started again as usual so the problem seemed to be solved.

Here is Inci, looking at a German yacht coming to moor on the pier, as Escapade is packed with all the other boats like a sardine in a tin .

Next day in Skagen was lovely with sunshine , so we had a nice walk in the town and along the beach. 

Skagen Houses

Skagen open air museum

Skagen’s first lighthouse.

Interesting boat trying to find a space in Skagen harbour.

Summer 2011 7. Crossing the Skagerrak

July 7th , 2011.
We Started sailing towards Denmark and while crossing Skagerrak, lots of whales along with some young ones appeared around the boat. We probably disturbed them while they were feeding in the area and one chased us away by splashing its flukes across our stern a couple of times leaving us with a wet cockpit !

Summer 2011 6. Cruising from Mandal to Kristiansand

After Mandal, we continued sailing towards east coast of Norway.

 We anchored in a lovely place at west of Orpholmen, approx. 7 miles east to Mandal.

 

 

Next morning, while we were getting ready to leave, a lovely wooden boat approached us ( Klara ). Klara's son and his grandson offered us a local trip in his boat, so, we had a nice morning seeing more of the shallow channels which would not be possible to enter using Escapade.

After this surprise boat trip we continued towards east for another and anchored between Aeroholmen and Torsoya and enjoyed rowing and walking on hills the next day.

Summer 2011 5. Sailing along the Norwegian coast

From Haugesund to south 
After Haugesund, we sailed along the Norwegian coast to reach a southeast location, before crossing Skagerrak to Denmark. 

So, we headed south and stopped at some anchorages on the way as the wind was against us during the first couple of days.

First anchorage

second anchorage

Sailing south and then east towards Lindesness

When northerly wind started we sailed off shore for the next 120 miles towards Lindesness and anchored and Kierkevagen ( Kirk bay ) to the east of Lindesness

Lindesness lighthouse

Kirk bay was a lovely anchorage to rest, we also enjoyed watching some local people taking their horses to swim in the bay.

Duck family enjoying nice weather at Kirk Bay

Continued sailing towards east coast and motored into a bay on Hille island when we lost the wind. 

Next day we sailed to Mandal , the most southerly town in Norway.

 

Two lovely wooden boats in Mandal marina

We enjoyed a couple of days in Mandal. A reliable free wireless internet at Mandal Guest marina was useful and a complimentary breakfast from marina delivered to boat as a surprise in the morning.

 Pine trees on the way to beach in Mandal

some Mandal houses